I hear birds calling back and forth. Some chirp timidly, others caw obnoxiously, while occasionally I’ll hear a terrifying screech, only to figure out that was also a bird. Tree branches fall, monkeys bicker, insects buzz all at the same time. Its loud, but I’ll take it any day over the noises of a busy city.
Its really not that much quieter than Lima, especially in the morning, but its far more pleasant to listen to. Trying to distinguish who’s saying what is initially overwhelming, but when I listen closely, I realize how harmoniously the creatures calls come together. Its as if the all the plants species of the forest along with her animals are in collaboration, functioning exactly as they should be. If I concentrate and sit quietly, I can listen in on a conversation between two birds. On a walk today, I heard a rain shower five minutes before it arrived. The sound of the raindrops hitting the leaves became louder as the downpour approached giving me just enough time to find an umbrella tree to stand under while the worst of it passed.
I’ve always had a keen sense of smell, but try to suppress it in the city since the scents of food, diesel fuel, and urine do not appeal to me. I had almost forgotten that to truly experience an odor you must use more than your nose. It involves breathing through your mouth and using your sense of taste. You must then allow the odor to infiltrate your entire chest cavity and head until it brings back a memory or creates a new one. Locals from Tambopata can smell Howler Monkeys from two miles away. I’m not that good yet, but can appreciate the fresh air, jungle fruits and nuts, flowers, leaves, even dirt.
There’s another sense. I’m not talking about that creepy movie with that little kid who hangs out with dead people. Its the same full body sensation you get when you first fall in love, or in like with someone. When I hike in the forest, no matter how hot it is, or whether its raining and I’m soaking wet, my energy increases and I could hike for hours. Worries cross through my mind for no more than a minute before I’m distracted by a jumble of vines, trees and plants competing with each other for sunlight. They wrap around each other, always moving upward in a beautiful chaos until they explode through the canopy spreading their branches in every direction to celebrate their triumph. My worries are forgotten and I realize I’ve been studying the forest for what feels like hours, but maybe was only seconds. This sense is timeless and unquantifiable. Its the same as falling in love, only this time I’ve fallen in love with a place.
Gordon McGladdery is a musician and sound designer from Vancouver, Canada. Winner of the international Soundcloud/Vancouver Film School Full Scholarship Challenge, he is currently enrolled in the Sound Design for Visual Media program and is set to graduate in December. Academics aside, he’s still keeping busy as composer for the youtube channel Smarter Every Day and co-composer for the hit iOS game Shellrazer. He has released three albums as A Shell in the Pit and one with the Victoria rock band "Oh Snap!"
Can you find a company of parrots on your next tour of Tambopata?
This article is presented by Peru For Less.