Stories

Gateway into the Amazon by Nicole Lizares

Nicole Lizares works for conservation organizations in the Philippines and recently joined us for an expedition to the Tambopata Research Center. Below is an article published by Nicole in the February/March 2015 issue of ‘Explore Philippines’. Enjoy!

Lodge-in-a-Magazine

‘Stumbled’ is perhaps not the most impressive word to describe how I managed to find myself in the middle of the Amazon rainforest, given that I was a grad student who had supposedly done her research well and had prepared meticulously for this trip, but it is the most appropriate.

After more than 29 hours hopping on and off airplanes, riding in cabs, a bus, and finally, on a boat upstream for what felt like an eternity (it was really just around four hours), I found myself dusty, sweaty and stumbling along a trail in the middle of the Tambopata National Reserve, one of the largest protected areas (covering more than 271,000 hectares of land) on the Peruvian side of the Amazon. Our final destination: The Tambopata Research Center, a.k.a TRC, an eco-lodge owned and operated by Rainforest Expeditions. I thanked the heavens that I was in their good hands.

Reputed to be one of the most remote eco-lodges in South America and the only one to be situated inside a national reserve, the TRC is in a very unique position. One of the world’s largest clay licks (mounds of mud and salt deposits where thousands of birds flock every morning to get their dose of the mineral) is a mere 500 meters from the lodge. The TRC’s remote location also means that the forest ecosystems around it remain pristine and largely untouched, offering researchers and scientists a rare opportunity to study wildlife in their most undisturbed state.

Back in the 1989..

In fact, the lodge’s name harkens back to a time when it was purely that: a research center, housing scientists who were studying the macaw population and working to protect the wild birds from illegal hunters.

“That was back in 1989,” shares our local forest guide, Frank Pichardo. “Eduardo Nycander, he was a wildlife photographer who started The Macaw Project in this area to gather information about the macaws that could help in protecting them, and he founded what is today known as Rainforest Expeditions with two other partners.”

TRC’s first clients were heavy-duty photographers and bird watchers who slept on a platform with makeshift mats (called “lengua de gato” or cat’s tongue because of their thinness” under mosquito nets. There was no latrine so the guests would take baths and do their business in the flowing river.

Today TRC boasts an 18-room lodge, eight shared bathrooms, and surrounding forest trails encompassing a combined web measuring about 20 kilometers and offering access to a range of wildlife habitats from bamboo forests to terra-firma forests, and riverine beds to palm swamps.

Frank, who has been with Rainforest Expeditions for almost six years, agrees that the company has come a long way from its humble beginnings and that the most significant progress has been on the forefront of conservation and social enterprise.

“I am really proud to be able to say that Rainforest Expeditions started eco-tourism in this area of Peru,” he beams. “One of the reasons that I really like working here is that, besides being involved in research, the company also has several projects and a cooperation with the local community in this area.”

Frank is referring to the indigenous Esa-Eja tribe in the nearby community of Infierno, two hours upriver from Puerto Maldonado, in Southeastern Peru, who also happens to be Rainforest Expeditions’ business partner.

“Rainforest Expeditions also runs another lodge called Posada Amazonas, which is closer to Puerto Maldonado and is partly run by the community. They have an agreement with the company wherein 60% of the profits stay within the community, and the rest goes to Rainforest Expeditions for profit and maintenance of the facilities,” Frank explains.

Besides TRC and Posada Amazonas, Rainforest Expeditions also runs Refugio Amazonas, the “luxury” lodge option to TRC’s more adventurous and Spartan vibe, and the company is currently undergoing research to build a fourth lodge. Whatever the theme, though, the team behind Rainforest Expeditions seems to have their formula down pat.

In all of the lodges, the rooms and structures are built to blend in with the environment, using traditional materials. A unique aspect of all of the rooms is that they have left the fourth wall vacant, opting instead for a waist- high balcony that opens out into the rainforest. This design is a singular feature for all Rainforest Expeditions lodges and gives guests the distinct feeling of being in closer contact with the forest but with the comforts of a hotel room.

The majestic sounds of the orchestra

Needless to say, we never had to look very far for wildlife. We would barely be ten steps from the entrance to the lodge before a strange new insect, a well-camouflaged snake, or a majestic bird would hold up our group. Boat rides were punctuated by sightings of capybaras or tapirs. Our well-versed and knowledgeable guides seemed to know the jungle like the backs of their hands, and could expertly field our queries and feed us tidbits of useful trivia.

I woke up every morning to the majestic sounds of the orchestra that was the Amazon rainforest just behind my bedpost: birds screeching intermittently, giant crickets chirping in a rising and falling crescendo, and the strange gurgling sounds of howler monkeys screaming at each other from the treetops.

Some days I would wake to find a rogue macaw poking around in my clothesline, probably hunting for some of the nuts and dried mangoes I would stuff into my pockets and take on hikes. And even though we had been warned to keep food locked up or stored safely in plastic bins or run the risk of getting our rooms invaded, one particular day we awoke to a mighty ruckus coming from a neighboring room: a stubborn guest had found some curious possums snooping (successfully) in his backpack for some chocolate bars.

A few days before the end of our trip, the host and humid skies finally broke and poured cool, wet rain on the TRC grounds. It didn’t last very long, but while it poured, I got the sense that the entire forest had gone quite still. I stood for a long time watching the rain from the shelter of TRC’s entrance hall, admiring the way the sun caught on the lodge’s thatch roofs and appreciating the cold, damp breeze the rain blew in, and not for the last time, I marveled at this little piece of paradise right smack in the middle of the Amazon jungle that Rainforest Expeditions had somehow nurtured, protected, and turned into a home.

What our guest say
- Valuation Excellent
- 5/5

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A truly magical experience. It’s set in a completely unique location in the middle of the jungle with no other lodges around. The guide we had (Jarinson) was the best, so so knowledgeable, experienced and lovely to spend the time with. The lodge itself is beautiful and food was great too. Would highly recommend. Read all

Interesting bus and river boat rides bring you to Posada Amazonas on the Tambopata River. It’s managed by the Ese Eja indigenous community. Luis M., our guide, helped us observe birds and learn about plants and other animals. A canopy tower, clay lick and oxbow lake are highlights. All personnel are extremely kind and researchers give short lectures in the evening. The food is delicious! Excellent mosquito netting in rooms! Read all

Wow where do I even begin. This was one of the most unique and special experiences we've ever had. You are smack dab in the middle of nowhere, deep in the Amazon jungle. Surrounded by plants and animals of all kinds and some of the most breathtaking scenery you can imagine. And in the company of scientists doing conservation work all around you. The facility is gorgeous beyond belief. Everything is so thoughtfully prepared, from water servers everywhere to comfy couches to hammocks to raised walkways so you can pad around barefoot without feeling like you're going to step on a scorpion. The meals are positively gourmet. They have delicious fresh juice out for you when you come back from your hikes. We spend 2 days there and I genuinely feel like I saw the jungle. 2-3 excursions a day with a private guide to show you everything from plants to birds to animals to a very tall tower where you can watch the sunset over the canopy. We only had 3 people in our group but I believe there can be up to 7. You have the same guide your whole trip so you really get to know them. Johan was our guide and he was wonderful. And I do believe the number of excursions/type/length can be adjusted based on your groups physical ability. The rooms are beautiful and comfy and they help you prepare mosquito netting at night so you can be comfortable. There's a full bar, in the middle of the rainforest. At night there are short (30 min) lectures you can go to if you want where the scientists talk about their work. Fascinating. We loved that the center was very eco conscious and put a lot of effort into being low impact while also offering a truly luxurious experience. That being said. Do yourself a favor and read the web site. This experience will not be for everyone. Ppl posting negative comments here about the heat, bugs, open rooms, etc did not do their homework. You are far, far inside pristine Amazon jungle. It is hot, humid, rainy, and there are bugs. You can expect to use your lovely shower a few times a day to cool off. Fortunately you have lots of down time during the heat of the day to rest under the ceiling fan in your room. There were lots of grasshoppers, moths etc around our room but honestly we didn't have many issues with biting insects or mosquitos despite visiting during the rainy season (we did use bug spray). Your room has one open wall that faces nature. Yes, technically than means someone could see you walking around naked in your room, but you are 15 feet up in the air and facing directly into thick jungle, there is no one out there besides birds and monkeys to see you. They do cut the brush back so nothing except maybe some birds could get into your room. The sounds are magical at night and during the day. It's hot especially if you go during the rainy season as we did. If you hate bugs or can't handle life without air conditioning, this is not for you. Truthfully we had no issues sleeping. Ventilation is another big benefit of the one open wall. Think of this as the glampiest glamping you'll ever do and you will not be disappointed. Read the web site and reviews thoroughly and you won't be surprised. Being good hiking shoes, a lightweight waterproof jacket, refillable water bottle, a hat, binoculars (you can rent them too), bug spray, and sunscreen. Lightweight long sleeved shirts and long pants are essential bc you want to be covered so you won't get bitten or in case you brush up against a nasty plant. We saw monkeys, macaws, capybaras, owls, a caiman, and some cool jungle bugs. The guides even have a telescope you can use to both look at the animals and take great pictures with your phone. once in a lifetime experience in one of the most special and precious ecosystems in the world. Worth every penny and honestly we felt the price was cheap considering what you get. The highlight of our trip to Peru. Thank you so much. Read all

It was our first time in the rainforest and we wouldn't do it any other way. The boat rides on the Madre de Dios and the walks through the rainforests were both exciting and peaceful. Exciting when we spotted wildlife and peaceful as we settled in to hear the sounds and sights of the forest. The lodge was comfortable and the food was great. The research talks in the evenings were a great pre-dinner ritual for us. Do check them out. Saul was an amazing guide - friendly, fun, knowledgeable and very tuned to the rainforest. He could pick up on slight sounds and movements and helped us spot some great wildlife. Read all

TRC is up close with nature deep inside the Peruvian Amazon. If you are a fan of wildlife and love being in the nature this is the place for you. This is an eco lodge, so come with similar expectations. The sound of macaws flying over would make your day. TRC is doing some amazing work on Macaw conservation, the visits to the clay lick would be special. During your journey you would be able to spot a number of animals, birds. Do not miss the guided walks, you would really see a lot of monkeys. If you are a photographer, invest in a good zoom lens ( it will pay you back). The other thing is the amazing staff that take care of you. The food is among the very best I tasted in Peru and they really pamper you. So make sure you walk a lot to burn the additional calories :) Starting from the booking to the pickup in the airport everything is meticulously planned. From Mariella of the booking team, Juan Carlos the guide and Tania, our manager in the hotel everyone was fantastic. Ultimately spotting wild animals is a lot of luck, but this would be a great experience. Rooms: Rooms are large, spacious with wide open balconies, but no monkeys come in ( they strictly don't encourage wildlife feeding). Nearby activities: Lots of them, morning hikes, afternoon hikes, sunset cruise Walkability: You need to walk a bit, so you need to be mobile Food & drinks: Awesome Buffet, great food. Read all

The immersion experience was great. Be prepared though to feel hot and full of bug spray much of the time. Wear hiking pants. Not Lulu leggings (too hot). The guides are great and you can do as much or as little as you want. We saw a lot of animals. Read all

Posadas Amazonas is an eco-friendly lodge that makes a huge commitment to preserving the rainforest for generations to come. The food served (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is fresh and delicious! The staff is extremely knowledgeable and caring. A special shoutout to the lodge manager Cesar for ensuring that we had packed meals for the onward journey when we were delayed by a rain storm. The main attractions apart from the abundant wildlife are the canopy tower and nearby Oxbow lake. The canopy tower gives a great 360 degree view of the rainforest and we were fortunate to see monkeys and macaws from the vantage point. At the Oxbow lake we saw river otters and Caimans and we were able to catch a piranha fish as well. Overall, Posada Amazonas is a great lodge owned and operated by the native communities located in the amazing Amazon rainforest. Read all

I had an amazing time here. I was traveling solo and did 4 days/3 nights through Inca Expert Travel. It was an unforgettable experience! I opted for a group tour for the excursions and am glad I did. Our guide, Boris, was fantastic and made sure we saw as much wildlife as possible. I can't say enough good things about him. The rest of the staff were also very kind. I enjoyed the large variety of fresh food at each meal. I felt safe and well-taken care of the entire time. Read all

TRC was an amazing place to stay. Being in the Amazon rainforest was truly like no other trip I have or will ever take. From arrival we were greeted by staff with cool drinks, warm welcomes. Beautiful main area w bar, sofas, tables,games. Our guide Fernando was SO knowledgeable, interesting, enthusiastic,. We already miss his smile and laugh :) We did every excursion available over our 4 days there. The night hike turned out to be our favorite as we spotted the wandering spider then and many other intersting moths/insects. January is hot and humid, so yes expect to be wet,sweaty. Pack extra bag for wet stinky clothes ... Be ok w insects as no 4th wall in your rooms so at night mosquitio nets do a good job preventing bugs in your bed but when you wake up to use bathroom excpect moths, grasshopppers etc in room. All harmless!! TRC does provide nice rainboots for wet swampy treks.. Read all

A perfect experience in the Amazon. Harry, our guide, made the entire experience very memorable. The food is good, the bar is expensive but good and the support staff were excellent. Tanya, the manager, took care of all our needs and was very supportive the entire stay. Please remember that the rooms are open to the nature and therefore comes with its pros and cons. You wake up with the nature including the mosquitos :) The experiences offered by the Refugio is fantastic and provides a great exposure to the Amazon. Dont miss the Macaw trip. It is just magical. Read all

This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience! From the getgo, it was easy to coordinate our 4-day stay at Tambopata. The booking was all done via email with quick responses, there was clear communication leading up to our stay and even upon arrival the staff was extremely organized (incl. taking our bags and making sure they arrived to our rooms). During our stay the staff was all very friendly and accomodating, the lodge was always clean (actually impressively clean given it is located in the jungle), and the food was great and plentiful. By far the best part of our stay was our tour guide, Saul. Upon arrival, Saul helped us pick our activities based on what animals we wanted to see (using his 10 years of experience). He worked on timing to make sure we can see as much as possible, was extremely knowledgable on the rainforest, the plants, the insects and the animals and noticeably put in the extra effort to find animals. You can tell that he truly loves his job and was always equally as excited to see the animals as us, even though he has seen them thousands of times. He helped us find monkeys, birds, countless insects, lizards, capybaras ect. I am 100% confident our experience wouldn't be the same without him. He even helped us capture these cool photos with only our iphone!! If you are planning to stay are TRC, I would highly recommend asking for Saul as a tour guide, if possible. Read all

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